We are now in Bishkek, the capital city of Kyrgyzstan. Tomorrow we head east then south toward the Chinese border. The capital is busy but, according to our guide, is still on edge after the massacre that happened here in April. We feel safe but have been warned not to go out after dark. No worries there as we had to get up at 2:30 AM to catch our 5:30 flight this morning. We had an hour’s rest at our hotel on arrival and then headed out for some sightseeing for the rest of the day. We’ve had dinner in the hotel and are heading to bed soon.
There is going to be a referendum on a new proposed constitution on June 27, the day before we are supposed to re-enter the country from China. Hopefully the results won’t start up a new round of violence. We plan to be far to the east up in the mountains anyway. We have really good support from our tour company and we feel assured that we won’t be allowed to re-enter the county if there is any question about our safety.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Ancient Khorezm
(June 13)
Heading out from Khiva after lunch, we drove northeast into the heart of ancient Khorezm. The Khorezm civilization flourished between the 5th century BC and the 8th century AD as part of the broader Ancient Persian influenced territories. It consisted of many states that covered a huge area stretching from the Khiva region to the Aral Sea. Archaeological investigations have found that the area has been settled since 5000 BC.
We visited the ruins of four Khorezm towns among the 20 that have been identified in one small region. Khorezm was part of many empires including the Achaemenid, Parthian, Sassanid and Afrighid – names that few have heard of in our part of the world. But in the 5th century BC, Herodotus described Khorezm as having greater cities than Egypt. All that remains are the thick sand walls that rise from the plains.
We spent the night at a yurt camp near Ayaz-Qala, a major regional trading centre between the 6th and 7th centuries AD. Dinner was served on long low tables inside the yurt and consisted of salads, dried fruit, fresh fruit, nuts, yogurt, a yummy meat stew and a bottle of vodka. It was hot inside the yurt and the night was perfectly clear, so Barney and I opted to sleep outside on one of the several concrete platforms that were in place for just that purpose. It was windy and cool (my thermometer read 28 C) and the stars were brilliant. Surrounded by empty desert, we slept well.
Pictures from Ancient Khorezm...
Heading out from Khiva after lunch, we drove northeast into the heart of ancient Khorezm. The Khorezm civilization flourished between the 5th century BC and the 8th century AD as part of the broader Ancient Persian influenced territories. It consisted of many states that covered a huge area stretching from the Khiva region to the Aral Sea. Archaeological investigations have found that the area has been settled since 5000 BC.
We visited the ruins of four Khorezm towns among the 20 that have been identified in one small region. Khorezm was part of many empires including the Achaemenid, Parthian, Sassanid and Afrighid – names that few have heard of in our part of the world. But in the 5th century BC, Herodotus described Khorezm as having greater cities than Egypt. All that remains are the thick sand walls that rise from the plains.
We spent the night at a yurt camp near Ayaz-Qala, a major regional trading centre between the 6th and 7th centuries AD. Dinner was served on long low tables inside the yurt and consisted of salads, dried fruit, fresh fruit, nuts, yogurt, a yummy meat stew and a bottle of vodka. It was hot inside the yurt and the night was perfectly clear, so Barney and I opted to sleep outside on one of the several concrete platforms that were in place for just that purpose. It was windy and cool (my thermometer read 28 C) and the stars were brilliant. Surrounded by empty desert, we slept well.
Pictures from Ancient Khorezm...
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| Ayaz Qala |
Videos from Khiva
The many variations of a folding wooden book stand...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiWr86GzS9w
Making a silk carpet...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rg7TYkIzC4o
Panorama of Khiva...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca-pDBC81aA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiWr86GzS9w
Making a silk carpet...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rg7TYkIzC4o
Panorama of Khiva...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca-pDBC81aA
Monday, June 21, 2010
Khiva
We only spent about 24 hours in Khiva but it was one big brilliant history lesson as we wandering among narrow alleys and in and out of mosques, minarets, palaces, and medressas. Within the medieval walls lies a ‘living museum’ that has been meticulously restored with many stunning examples of 15th to 19th century Islamic architecture. Khiva is an ancient regional capital that has been inhabited for over 2000 years. It’s suffered devastation by Mongols, Sogdians and Bolsheviks (to name only a few) but has been repeatedly rebuilt.
The bazaars and shops were full of locally made weavings, puppets, fur hats, carpets, embroidery, carved book stands, silk scarves, and wool slippers. The restaurants served salads of fresh cucumbers and tomatoes with yogurt, and tiny apples and apricots for dessert. The sun was relentless raising the temperature to an exhausting (but very dry) 38 C. We had an air conditioned room in a small family run hotel that was decorated in traditional Uzbek style. Everyone we met was gracious, inquisitive and friendly although only few people spoke a little English. A lot of the exchanges were done with just smiles and laughs.
I took over 300 pictures in Khiva. I got a little carried away trying to capture the lovely tile work, wooden doors and carved pillars. The photos I have included below are just a sample.
Pictures from Khiva...
The bazaars and shops were full of locally made weavings, puppets, fur hats, carpets, embroidery, carved book stands, silk scarves, and wool slippers. The restaurants served salads of fresh cucumbers and tomatoes with yogurt, and tiny apples and apricots for dessert. The sun was relentless raising the temperature to an exhausting (but very dry) 38 C. We had an air conditioned room in a small family run hotel that was decorated in traditional Uzbek style. Everyone we met was gracious, inquisitive and friendly although only few people spoke a little English. A lot of the exchanges were done with just smiles and laughs.
I took over 300 pictures in Khiva. I got a little carried away trying to capture the lovely tile work, wooden doors and carved pillars. The photos I have included below are just a sample.
Pictures from Khiva...
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| Khiva |
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| Khiva |
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| Khiva |
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Get out your maps of Kyrgyzstan
We're back in Tashkent for one night. We've had an outstanding time so far, visiting the towns/ cities of Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarkand as well as two nights out in the countryside. Internet access has been a bit of a problem - especially finding places that offer the wireless connections that I need to upload the photos. Be patient. I'll post our news whenever I can.
All the recent turmoil in Kyrgyzstan has caused us to change our tour route. We were supposed to travel through the Ferghana Valley (Uzbekistan) and enter Kyrgyzstan at Osh - the sight of all the trouble. The plan now is to head to Ferghana (the city) tomorrow for one night and then return to Tashkent. On the 23rd we fly to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Bishkek is far to the northeast of Osh and remains safe for travel. From Bishkek we drive via Naryn into China over the Torugart Pass and onto to Kashgar. After Kashgar we turn around and retrace our path over the pass and pick up the tour as it was originally planned. The Canadian Foreign Affairs Department says it's OK to travel to the areas we are going.
All the recent turmoil in Kyrgyzstan has caused us to change our tour route. We were supposed to travel through the Ferghana Valley (Uzbekistan) and enter Kyrgyzstan at Osh - the sight of all the trouble. The plan now is to head to Ferghana (the city) tomorrow for one night and then return to Tashkent. On the 23rd we fly to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Bishkek is far to the northeast of Osh and remains safe for travel. From Bishkek we drive via Naryn into China over the Torugart Pass and onto to Kashgar. After Kashgar we turn around and retrace our path over the pass and pick up the tour as it was originally planned. The Canadian Foreign Affairs Department says it's OK to travel to the areas we are going.
Overnight train to Khiva
(June 11)
Our first destination was Khiva on the other side of Uzbekistan - far to the west on the border with Turkmenistan. The train journey was to take us 20 hours and passed through a variety of landscapes – deserts, mountains, and lush irrigated fields. For much of the trip the Karakum desert lay to the south and the Kyzylkum desert to the north.
Barney and I had a four-birth room to ourselves with blue satin pillows and bedspreads. There was a lovely blue and white teapot and four cups waiting for us on the small table between the beds. It could be filled for 35 cents with black or green tea.
We boarded at 6 so had a few hours to watch the country side before it got dark. We weren’t far out of Tashkent before we started to see farms. The night was hot but we got some rest. I don’t find rocking trains very soothing.
We woke to scrubby plains a lot like parts of Australia but with clay-coloured dirt not rusty red. In greener areas we saw a gazelle and several Bactrian camels. The camels must have been domesticated but it was still exciting to see their two humps instead of one.
Towards the end of the trip we crossed the Amu Darya – the historical Oxus River – crossed by Alexander the Great, Chinghiz Khan and Tamerlane. Uzbek Armies, Persian armies, Russian armies, and Mongol armies forded this river in waves of conquest and destruction.
The train ride was hot – really hot. Our room got up to 42 C by mid-afternoon. No air conditioning but a few open windows provided some relief.
We got off the train at the end of the line at Urgench where we were met by another huge air conditioned bus and the two drivers who were to be our companions for the next 10 days. A final half hour drive brought us to Khiva, a medieval walled city designated a World Heritage Site.
Pictures from the train trip to Khiva...
Our first destination was Khiva on the other side of Uzbekistan - far to the west on the border with Turkmenistan. The train journey was to take us 20 hours and passed through a variety of landscapes – deserts, mountains, and lush irrigated fields. For much of the trip the Karakum desert lay to the south and the Kyzylkum desert to the north.
Barney and I had a four-birth room to ourselves with blue satin pillows and bedspreads. There was a lovely blue and white teapot and four cups waiting for us on the small table between the beds. It could be filled for 35 cents with black or green tea.
We boarded at 6 so had a few hours to watch the country side before it got dark. We weren’t far out of Tashkent before we started to see farms. The night was hot but we got some rest. I don’t find rocking trains very soothing.
We woke to scrubby plains a lot like parts of Australia but with clay-coloured dirt not rusty red. In greener areas we saw a gazelle and several Bactrian camels. The camels must have been domesticated but it was still exciting to see their two humps instead of one.
Towards the end of the trip we crossed the Amu Darya – the historical Oxus River – crossed by Alexander the Great, Chinghiz Khan and Tamerlane. Uzbek Armies, Persian armies, Russian armies, and Mongol armies forded this river in waves of conquest and destruction.
The train ride was hot – really hot. Our room got up to 42 C by mid-afternoon. No air conditioning but a few open windows provided some relief.
We got off the train at the end of the line at Urgench where we were met by another huge air conditioned bus and the two drivers who were to be our companions for the next 10 days. A final half hour drive brought us to Khiva, a medieval walled city designated a World Heritage Site.
Pictures from the train trip to Khiva...
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| Khiva train |
Tashkent
(June 8, 9, 10)
Barney and I arrived in Tashkent after the 7.5 hour flight from Kuala Lumpur. There were too many clouds along the way to see much of the Himalayas, but we did get a good view of huge sand dunes that we think were in southern China. It was 34 C when we landed but it felt surprisingly cool because it wasn’t humid.
We were met at the airport and driven to the Hotel Uzbekistan – a four star Soviet-era colossus that was decorated with satin, silk and imitation Louis 14th furniture. Coffee was served in china demi-tasse cups with painted gold rims.
The tour didn’t start until two days after we arrived. We spent a bit of time over those two days walking around the city but I was more interested in getting some rest so we weren’t too ambitious. We discovered that Tashkent (population over two million) is a very green city full of well maintained parks, large spreading trees, and wide stately streets. Eighty percent of Tashkent was flattened in an earthquake in 1966 and the rebuilt city is lovely. I guess I was expecting ugly Soviet blocks of apartments and office buildings but what we found was a charmingly modern city, clean and beautifully laid out.
Crossing the street was something of a challenge. Drivers attack the street with an aggression that is a mix of drag racing and dodge’em cars. And U-turns are a common practice so we could never be sure where a car might be coming from.
Museum of Fine Arts had an absolutely stunning collection of textiles, paintings (older and modern), furniture, carved wooden and gypsum screens, ceramic bird houses, ornate embroidered clothing and musical instruments. Everything was beautiful displayed and had English labels. The museum far outshone the one we’d visited in Kuala Lumpur. I later learned that some of the collection once belonged to the Romanovs. We also passed by the Opera House on our wanderings - quite an imposing building. Tickets to full production operas only cost $2. Unfortunately it’s closed in June and July.
When we visited the Olay bazaar we were a bit intimidated at first by all the grim stern faces as we were used to the ready smiles of the Malaysians. However we soon found if we initiated the smile it was generally returned with a warm smile or a friendly nod. Many people have had their front teeth replaced with gold ones (replaced – not capped!) which adds a sparkle to any wide grin. Very few people spoke any English but we managed to negotiate the purchase of some pistachios, fresh apricots and small apples for our upcoming train trip. Later we also found a ‘department store’ that sold Uzbek silk at $6 per metre.
Uzbek currency is called 'sum'. There are 1500 sum to the dollar. We changed $200 and wound up with a ridiculous pile as the biggest bill is 1000 som (see the picture below. So if you buy something for 50,000 som, you have to count out 50 bills.
We spent our third day in Tashkent with our newly formed group – one New Zealander, 12 Aussies and us two Canadians – visiting some of the city’s mosques and medressas (religious school), the Museum of Uzbek History and the Chorsu Bazaar in a huge air conditioned bus. What a well travelled group we’ve found ourselves in. I think the youngest person is 50 and the oldest in his mid-70s. Our guide’s name is Rustam and he will accompany us on the Uzbekistan portion of our tour.
Pictures from Tashkent
Barney and I arrived in Tashkent after the 7.5 hour flight from Kuala Lumpur. There were too many clouds along the way to see much of the Himalayas, but we did get a good view of huge sand dunes that we think were in southern China. It was 34 C when we landed but it felt surprisingly cool because it wasn’t humid.
We were met at the airport and driven to the Hotel Uzbekistan – a four star Soviet-era colossus that was decorated with satin, silk and imitation Louis 14th furniture. Coffee was served in china demi-tasse cups with painted gold rims.
The tour didn’t start until two days after we arrived. We spent a bit of time over those two days walking around the city but I was more interested in getting some rest so we weren’t too ambitious. We discovered that Tashkent (population over two million) is a very green city full of well maintained parks, large spreading trees, and wide stately streets. Eighty percent of Tashkent was flattened in an earthquake in 1966 and the rebuilt city is lovely. I guess I was expecting ugly Soviet blocks of apartments and office buildings but what we found was a charmingly modern city, clean and beautifully laid out.
Crossing the street was something of a challenge. Drivers attack the street with an aggression that is a mix of drag racing and dodge’em cars. And U-turns are a common practice so we could never be sure where a car might be coming from.
Museum of Fine Arts had an absolutely stunning collection of textiles, paintings (older and modern), furniture, carved wooden and gypsum screens, ceramic bird houses, ornate embroidered clothing and musical instruments. Everything was beautiful displayed and had English labels. The museum far outshone the one we’d visited in Kuala Lumpur. I later learned that some of the collection once belonged to the Romanovs. We also passed by the Opera House on our wanderings - quite an imposing building. Tickets to full production operas only cost $2. Unfortunately it’s closed in June and July.
When we visited the Olay bazaar we were a bit intimidated at first by all the grim stern faces as we were used to the ready smiles of the Malaysians. However we soon found if we initiated the smile it was generally returned with a warm smile or a friendly nod. Many people have had their front teeth replaced with gold ones (replaced – not capped!) which adds a sparkle to any wide grin. Very few people spoke any English but we managed to negotiate the purchase of some pistachios, fresh apricots and small apples for our upcoming train trip. Later we also found a ‘department store’ that sold Uzbek silk at $6 per metre.
Uzbek currency is called 'sum'. There are 1500 sum to the dollar. We changed $200 and wound up with a ridiculous pile as the biggest bill is 1000 som (see the picture below. So if you buy something for 50,000 som, you have to count out 50 bills.
We spent our third day in Tashkent with our newly formed group – one New Zealander, 12 Aussies and us two Canadians – visiting some of the city’s mosques and medressas (religious school), the Museum of Uzbek History and the Chorsu Bazaar in a huge air conditioned bus. What a well travelled group we’ve found ourselves in. I think the youngest person is 50 and the oldest in his mid-70s. Our guide’s name is Rustam and he will accompany us on the Uzbekistan portion of our tour.
Pictures from Tashkent
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| Tashkent |
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